Stove and oven repair in Ottawa

A stove problem changes how the whole household eats. When burners stop heating, cooking becomes guesswork; when the oven won’t heat, dinner waits; when a range trips the breaker or shows a code, you’re left wondering whether it’s safe to use. We repair every part of the appliance, on every common type of stove:

• Freestanding and slide-in ranges, electric or gas: see range repair in Ottawa.
• Gas stoves and ranges: burners, spark igniters, oven igniters and safety valves. See gas stove repair, gas range repair and gas oven repair.
• Glass-top (smooth-top) electric stoves: radiant elements, limiters, touch controls and cracked glass. See glass top stove repair.
• Induction stoves and cooktops: power boards, coils, pan detection and error codes. See induction stove repair.
• Built-in wall ovens, single and double: see wall oven repair.
• Counter-mounted cooktops, gas, electric and induction: see cooktop repair and gas cooktop repair.
• Coil-element electric stoves: elements, receptacles, infinite switches and terminal blocks.

We also repair what sits above the stove: range hoods and over-the-range microwaves. For restaurant and bakery equipment, see commercial oven repair.

One burner or element not working

One dead burner is rarely the whole stove. On a coil top the cause is usually the element, its receptacle or the infinite switch behind the knob; under glass it is the radiant element, its limiter or the switch; on gas it is a blocked port, a wet or cracked electrode or one output of the spark module. See stove burner not working.

Burner stuck on high

A burner that glows red at every setting, or won’t switch off at all, has a failed infinite switch or a welded relay on the control board. Cut power at the breaker and leave it off until the switch is replaced. See stove burner stuck on.

Oven not heating

On an electric oven the usual suspects are a burnt-out bake or broil element, a failed temperature sensor, a control-board relay or a lost leg of the 240-volt supply (the clock and light need only 120 volts, so they can keep working while the oven stays cold). On a gas oven it is usually a weak igniter. See oven not heating and oven not igniting.

Wrong temperature or uneven baking

A drifting sensor, a stalled convection fan, a worn door gasket or a slow igniter all show up as burnt bottoms, pale tops and long preheats. We check the cavity against a reference thermometer. See oven temperature problems.

Oven won’t turn on, or a dead display

A blown thermal fuse, a stuck key, a failed control board or a door lock that thinks a self-clean is running. See oven won’t turn on.

Self-clean trouble

Self-clean runs far hotter than baking, so it is the usual trigger for a failed door-lock motor, thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat. See oven self-clean not working.

Clicking igniters, error codes and tripped breakers

Non-stop clicking on a gas range means a wet electrode, a stuck switch or a failing spark module; see gas stove igniter clicking. F-codes and E-codes point toward a sensor, lock, key or board, but a code is a starting point, not the diagnosis. A range that trips its breaker may have a shorted element, a burned terminal block or damaged wiring, so stop using it until it has been tested.

Oven shuts off mid-cook or won’t turn off

First rule out a timed-bake setting that ended the cycle on schedule. An oven that cuts out partway through a bake may have a stalled cooling fan, a tripped high-limit thermostat, a sensor sending false readings or a failing control board; on gas, an igniter too weak to relight the burner as the oven cycles makes it lose heat the same way. One that keeps heating after you cancel usually has a relay stuck closed on the board: turn it off at the breaker and don’t use it again until it has been repaired.

Oven light out

With the oven cool and its breaker off, replace the bulb behind the glass cover with an appliance bulb rated for oven heat, of the type your manual lists. If a new bulb stays dark, the socket, the light or door switch, or the control board is the next suspect.

Ottawa kitchens have both, and each fails in its own way.

Electric ranges and ovens

An electric range runs on a 240-volt circuit and heats with resistance elements: coils, radiant ribbons under glass, or bake and broil elements in the oven. Infinite switches, relays and a temperature sensor control them. Faults are electrical: an open element, a burned connector, a stuck relay, a control that has lost a segment. Please don’t open panels or test wiring yourself; the technician isolates power and tests each part with a meter.

Gas ranges and ovens

A gas range is a small combustion system: a regulator, a valve and orifice for each burner, a spark module and electrodes on top, and a glow-bar igniter with a safety valve in the oven. Faults show up as clicking without a flame, yellow or uneven flames, delayed ignition or an oven that never lights. Gas stoves, ranges, ovens and cooktops are repaired by our TSSA-certified technicians, and the gas diagnostic is $129 + tax.

Dual-fuel and induction

Dual-fuel ranges pair gas burners with an electric oven, so both sets of checks apply. Induction is electric but electronic: there is no element to burn out, but there are power boards, coils and cooling fans that can fail. For gas dryers and other gas appliances, see gas appliance repair in Ottawa.

Most oven calls come down to a short list of parts. The bake element at the bottom of an electric oven, exposed or hidden under the floor panel, is the single most common failure; where you can see it, look for a blister or a break. The broil element at the top fails the same way. Gas ovens rely on a glow-bar igniter that weakens with age long before it fails outright, so an oven that takes several minutes to light is telling you the igniter is near its end.

After those come the temperature sensor (the thin probe at the back of the cavity), the convection fan and its motor, the control board and its relays, and the door: hinges, gasket, glass and the self-clean lock. A door that doesn’t seal can make an oven seem not to heat even when every heating part works.

We repair the oven in freestanding and slide-in ranges, built-in single and double wall ovens, and convection, steam and combination models. If yours is gas, gas oven repair explains how the igniter and safety valve work together.

Oven door parts: hinges, gasket and glass

A door that drops open, won’t close squarely or sits crooked usually has worn or broken hinges. A torn, flattened or hardened gasket lets heat escape around the edges, so preheat drags and food nearest the door bakes pale. If the inner or outer glass is cracked, stop using the oven: heat, and a self-clean cycle above all, can spread the crack or break the pane. Hinges, gaskets and glass are model-specific, so send the model number from the label; we inspect the door and quote the part in writing before replacing it.

Convection ovens

In a convection oven a fan in the back wall circulates the heat, and models sold as true or European convection also have a ring-shaped element around that fan. A fan that stays silent, grinds or squeals, or convection modes that bake slowly and unevenly while regular bake works, point to the fan motor, a fan blade loose on its shaft, that extra element or the board output that drives them; we test each one. For restaurant and bakery convection ovens, see commercial oven repair.

We have been repairing appliances in Ottawa since 1995, and we work on these stove, range and oven brands, among others:

• Whirlpool
• GE, GE Profile and Café
• Frigidaire and Frigidaire Gallery
• Samsung
• LG
• Maytag
• KitchenAid
• Bosch
• Electrolux
• Kenmore
• Inglis
• Amana
• Jenn-Air
• Fisher & Paykel
• Blomberg
• Miele
• Thermador
• Viking
• Wolf

Brand pages: Samsung, GE and Frigidaire stoves; KitchenAid and Bosch ovens; and our Whirlpool, Maytag and LG pages. For premium and pro-style ranges, parts sometimes have to be ordered; we give you the timeline with the quote. If the stove is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, check with the manufacturer first.

Cost depends on the exact fault and part, which is why diagnosis comes first. The diagnostic visit is $89 + tax for electric stoves, ovens and cooktops; gas appliances and commercial equipment are $129 + tax. You then get a written quote for parts and labour, and nothing is repaired until you approve it.

What moves the price of the repair:

• The part: elements, sensors, igniters and infinite switches sit at the lower end; control boards, touch panels and replacement glass tops at the upper end.
• Gas or electric: gas work includes certified handling and a leak test on every connection opened.
• Access: a built-in wall oven may have to slide out of its cabinet, and a slide-in range has to come out from between the counters.
• Brand and parts supply: premium and imported brands use costlier parts that may need to be ordered.
• Timing and distance: visits between 9 PM and 7 AM add a $100 flat after-hours fee, and travel charges may apply more than 30 km from downtown Ottawa.

For more on what each part costs to replace, see stove repair cost in Ottawa and oven repair cost in Ottawa. Many stoves are worth repairing when the rest of the unit is sound; if yours has several major faults, our repair or replace guide walks through the decision, and stove installation covers the hook-up of a new one.

Use the online form at any time, or call us. A few details save a lot of back-and-forth:

• Appliance type: stove, range, wall oven or cooktop.
• Fuel: electric coil, glass top, induction or gas.
• What’s affected: one burner or all of them, oven only, cooktop only.
• Error code: a photo of the display helps.
• Brand and model: from the label, if you can find it.

A request isn’t an appointment yet: we call or text to confirm a time window of about three hours, and same-day visits are possible when the schedule allows. Please clear access to the range, and for a slide-in or wall oven, the floor in front of it.

On site the technician confirms the symptom, tests the parts involved and explains what failed in plain language. If the stove isn’t worth repairing, we tell you why. You get a written quote before any work, a written diagnostic report after the visit, and a 3-month warranty on parts and labour for the repair; ask for the written terms.

We repair stoves and ovens across the city, including Kanata, Barrhaven, Nepean, Orléans, Gloucester, Stittsville, Manotick, Riverside South, Centretown, Westboro and the Glebe.

Farther out, see stove repair in Almonte, Arnprior, Carleton Place, Kemptville, Perth, Smiths Falls, Rockland, Hawkesbury and Cornwall; travel charges may apply more than 30 km from downtown Ottawa. On the Quebec side, see stove repair in Gatineau or, en français, réparation de cuisinière.

We also repair dishwashers, dryers and every other major appliance; see appliance repair in Ottawa. For a breakdown that can’t wait, see emergency appliance repair.