Oven won’t turn on in Ottawa?

• No power or tripped breaker. A tripped double-pole breaker, a blown fuse or a loose connection can leave an electric oven dead.
• Whole electric range dead. If the clock is blank and neither the surface elements nor the oven will heat, the fault sits before the controls: the 240-volt supply from the panel, the range cord, or the terminal block where the cord joins the range at the back, which can loosen or scorch over time. Reset the double breaker once; if it trips again or the range stays dead, leave the cord and terminal block to the technician rather than pulling the range out.
• Failed control board or timer. A faulty board or a stuck timer can stop the oven turning on.
• Bad igniter (gas) or element (electric). If the controls work but there is no heat, a worn igniter or a burned-out element is the usual cause.
• Stuck self-clean door lock. A lock stuck after a self-clean cycle can leave the oven unable to start.
• Tripped thermal fuse. A blown thermal fuse cuts power to the oven.

A blank display means power isn’t reaching the control, or the control itself has failed. A display that works while the oven stays cold puts the heating side under suspicion instead: the igniter or element, the thermal fuse or the door lock.

We check the power supply, the control board, the igniter or element and the safety devices to find why it won’t turn on, then replace the faulty part. Gas ranges in Ontario are serviced by our TSSA-certified technicians. Our repairs are factory-authorized, and B&M has served Ottawa and Gatineau since 1995. If you are weighing a new range instead, see repair or replace your oven.

A third pattern sits between a dead oven and a cold one: the display lights up, but pressing Bake, Start or the number pads does nothing, or only some keys respond. First rule out a control lock, a Sabbath or demo mode and a flashing clock, as in the checks on this page. If the keys still ignore you, one of two parts is usually at fault.

• The membrane keypad. A thin layer of switch contacts under the printed overlay, connected to the control board by a ribbon cable. One dead key, keys that only work when pressed hard, or beeps and setting changes nobody made all point here. Cleaner sprayed straight onto the panel can seep under the overlay, and heat and steam rising from the cooktop or the oven vent wear it over the years.
• The control board. When no key responds at all, or the display shows broken or random segments, the board that reads the keypad may have failed instead.

The technician tests the keypad circuits first, since a control board usually costs more than a keypad, and you get a written quote before any work. On some ranges with a glass touch panel, the panel and the board are sold as one assembly; if yours is one of them, the quote says so. To protect a new keypad, spray cleaner onto a cloth rather than onto the panel. Built-in units have their own notes on wall oven repair.