Appliance repair in Markham, ON

We serve Markham’s northern and central neighbourhoods most often: Unionville, Berczy, Cathedraltown, Angus Glen, Wismer, Greensborough, Cornell and Markham Village, across the L3P, L3R, L3S, L6B, L6C, L6E and L6G postal codes. Addresses farther south toward Steeles are booked by appointment, combined with other calls in the area where we can.

Because Markham sits at the south edge of the area we cover, it more often gets a scheduled window than a same-day one. If a travel charge applies to your address, we say so before booking.

Markham has many multi-generation households, where the fridge, dishwasher and laundry run far more often than in a typical home. Heavy use rarely changes what breaks, but it does change how soon:

• Fridges opened dozens of times a day wear door gaskets and hinges faster, and the extra warm, moist air means more frost for the defrost system to clear.
• Dishwashers running twice a day fill their filters quickly; rinsing the filter weekly prevents many drain and cleaning complaints.
• Washers loaded to the top every cycle strain suspension parts, bearings and door boots, and their drain pumps catch more lint and small objects.
• Dryers doing back-to-back loads build up lint in the vent faster, which slows drying and makes the machine run hot.

The repairs we see most here are French-door and four-door fridges with cooling or ice maker faults, front-loaders with drain problems, and dishwashers with drain or leak codes. Each is covered below.

When the fresh-food side of a French-door or four-door fridge warms up while the freezer stays cold, the cause is usually airflow: frost on the evaporator from a failed defrost heater, sensor or control, or an evaporator fan that has stopped pushing cold air through. Some four-door models also have a convertible middle drawer with its own damper or fan, which can fail on its own.

If both sections are warm, the technician checks the condenser coil and fan, the start relay and the control board. A sealed-system fault (compressor or refrigerant) is explained to you, with your options, before anything else is done.

Water under the crispers or on the floor usually comes from a frozen or blocked defrost drain, a cracked water line or a leaking inlet valve. We also fix door seals that no longer close tightly and fridges that click, buzz or rattle, on top-freezer, bottom-freezer, side-by-side, counter-depth and built-in models as well as upright and chest freezers.

Ice maker faults

No ice, slow ice, ice jammed in the door chute or water leaking from the dispenser. The usual culprits are a water valve that sticks, a fill tube blocked with ice, a clogged filter, ice build-up in the door ice compartment, or the ice-maker assembly. Note whether the water dispenser still works when you book; it helps narrow the fault.

Worth repairing?

French-door and four-door fridges are expensive to replace, so fans, sensors, defrost parts, valves, gaskets and ice makers are almost always worth fixing. The harder call is a compressor or refrigerant fault on an older model; we give you the numbers and our honest view.

Front-loader won’t drain

A front-load washer that ends a cycle full of water, or stops with a drain code such as LG OE or Samsung 5C, usually has a blocked pump filter, a kinked or clogged drain hose, or a failed drain pump. Many owners can clear the filter themselves, with the washer unplugged, towels down and a shallow pan ready, following the manual. If the water still won’t pump out, the technician tests the pump and its wiring.

Other washer faults

A drum that won’t spin is usually down to the door lock or lid switch, the belt, worn suspension or the motor control. Water on the floor tends to come from a split door boot, a hose connection or the pump seal. A front-loader that smells musty usually has debris trapped in the pump filter or mould on the rubber door seal. If the display shows another code, for example F21 or E21, note it when you book. We repair front-load, top-load, high-efficiency and stacked washers.

Dryer repair in Markham

A dryer that stays cold has usually lost its heating element, thermal fuse or a thermostat. One that heats but needs two cycles almost always has an airflow problem in the lint path or vent. If it runs but the drum doesn’t turn, the belt, idler pulley or rollers are the likely parts, and squealing or thumping points the same way. Lint in the vent also makes a dryer run hot, which is a fire risk, so the technician tells you when the vent is the real problem. We repair electric dryers only.

Dishwashers in busy Markham kitchens tend to call us for two reasons: they stop draining, or they flag a leak. Bosch is a good example. E24 and E25 mean the machine can’t drain, usually because of a clogged filter, a kinked hose or debris in the drain pump. E15 means water has collected in the base and tripped the leak sensor; we find the source (often a door gasket, a sump seal or a hose connection), dry the base and reset the unit.

Dirty dishes are a third, less urgent complaint; for those the technician looks at the spray arms, the circulation pump, the inlet valve and the water temperature. Other brands use different codes for the same faults, so tell us the brand, model and the code or light pattern when you book. Bosch, KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, Frigidaire and Miele dishwashers, whether built-in, panel-ready or compact, are all repaired.

Ovens that won’t heat, take too long to preheat or bake unevenly usually have a failed bake or broil element, an oven sensor reading wrong, or a relay stuck on the control board. A self-clean cycle that leaves the door locked points to the lock motor or switch. On the cooktop, an element that won’t turn on or stays on high is often the infinite switch or a control fault, and glass tops can also fail at the touch controls.

Induction zones only work with magnetic cookware. If a fridge magnet doesn’t stick to the base of the pan, the pan is the problem rather than the cooktop; if it does stick and the zone still won’t detect it, the technician tests the coil and the induction board. Please leave the panels in place; a range carries 240 volts.

Microwaves and range hoods

Microwaves that won’t heat, spark or cut out when the door is touched, whether over-the-range or built-in, are tested at the door switches, control board and high-voltage parts after the unit is safely discharged. We also fix range hood fans, lights and controls. A countertop microwave rarely justifies a repair, and we’ll say so.

For condos in Downtown Markham and along Highway 7, tell us about elevator bookings and visitor parking when you book. Compact stacked washer-dryers and slim dishwashers are repaired in place wherever possible.

In a townhouse, the laundry is often in the basement or a second-floor closet. Let us know which, and whether a stacked pair can be pulled forward, so the technician can plan the time.

• Refrigerators and freezers (fridge and freezer guides)
• Washers (washer guide)
• Electric dryers (dryer guide)
• Dishwashers (dishwasher guide)
• Electric ranges, ovens and cooktops: elements, sensors, glass tops and controls (oven and stove guide)
• Over-the-range and built-in microwaves, and range hood fans and lights
• Installation: replacing an electric appliance on hook-ups that are already in place

Brands include LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE and GE Café, Maytag, KitchenAid, Bosch, Electrolux, Kenmore, Miele, Amana, Fisher & Paykel, Jenn-Air and Blomberg. If an appliance is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, check with the manufacturer first.