Appliance repair in Richmond Hill, ON

We cover all of Richmond Hill, from Langstaff and Richvale in the south to Jefferson, Westbrook, Mill Pond, Bayview Hill, Rouge Woods, Elgin Mills and Headford, across the L4B, L4C, L4E and L4S postal codes. Our technician is based in Newmarket and reaches the city along Yonge Street or Highway 404. In the north end, Oak Ridges and Lake Wilcox has its own page.

Richmond Hill has a lot of condo and townhouse living along Yonge Street and Highway 7. Tell us about access when you book, such as a service-elevator booking, a parking permit, or a stacked washer-dryer in a closet. That way the technician arrives prepared, in a window that suits the building.

• Fridges: warm compartments, frost, leaks and ice makers. Fridge repair guide.
• Freezers: upright, chest, top-mount and bottom-mount. Freezer repair.
• Washers: full-size and compact, front- or top-load. Washer repair.
• Electric dryers: full-size and compact condo units. Dryer repair.
• Dishwashers: standard, slim and panel-ready. Dishwasher repair.
• Electric stoves, ovens and cooktops: oven and stove repair.
• Microwaves and hoods: over-range and built-in microwaves, range hood fans and lights.
• Installation: replacement electric appliances on existing connections (see below).

We repair Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, GE and GE Café, Frigidaire and Frigidaire Gallery, Electrolux, Bosch, Miele, Kenmore, Amana, Fisher & Paykel, Jenn-Air, Blomberg and other common brands. For an appliance under its original warranty, the manufacturer may cover the repair, so check with them first.

Condo suites often have compact 24-inch stacked washer-dryers and slim dishwashers. They fail in the same ways as full-size units, through drain pumps, door locks, heating elements and belts; they just take more care to reach. We repair them in place wherever possible.

Some compact dryers vent through a short duct to the outside or into the building’s exhaust, while others are ventless condensing models. A slow vented dryer usually has lint in the duct or a crushed connector behind the stack. A ventless dryer that leaves clothes damp often needs its lint screens and condenser cleaned, or has a blocked condensate drain. The technician confirms which type you have before replacing any part.

In a closet installation, the washer usually has to come out first to reach the dryer’s back panel or the washer’s pump, so let us know how much room there is in front of the closet.

Townhouses often put the laundry on an upper floor. Water from a leaking washer up there reaches the ceiling below quickly, so close the taps behind the machine as soon as you notice a puddle, then wipe it up and note where the water first appeared. That detail helps the technician trace the leak.

When a fridge runs warm, the cause is usually one part of the cooling cycle, not the whole appliance. To find it, the technician works through the defrost parts (heater, bi-metal thermostat, sensor, and the timer or control board), then the evaporator and condenser fans, the start relay and the controls. Very often the coil behind the freezer panel turns out to be encased in ice, a sign of a defrost fault rather than a failed compressor.

Other fridge repairs we handle include water pooling under the crisper drawers, an ice maker that won’t fill or dispenses slowly, a water valve that leaks or hums, door gaskets that let warm air in, and fans that grind or squeal. We work on French-door, side-by-side, top- and bottom-freezer, counter-depth and panel-ready fridges, plus upright and chest freezers. If the compressor or sealed system has failed, we tell you plainly whether the repair makes sense for the fridge’s age before you spend more than the diagnostic.

Slow preheating, uneven baking or no heat at all usually comes down to a bake or broil element that has failed, a temperature sensor giving false readings, a stuck relay on the control board, or a door lock still engaged after a self-clean cycle. On the cooktop, we replace dead coil or radiant elements and failed infinite switches, and we diagnose glass-top touch controls and induction zones that won’t detect a pan.

We repair freestanding, slide-in and built-in electric ranges, wall ovens and cooktops. Ranges draw 240 volts, so leave the panels on; a tripped double breaker is the one thing worth checking yourself.

Washers

A washer that stops with a tub full of water is usually a drain problem: a coin or sock caught in the pump, a filter packed with lint, a kinked drain hose or a tired drain pump. A drum that won’t spin points us to the belt, the motor coupler, the door lock or lid switch, or the motor control board. Banging during the spin usually comes from tired shock absorbers or suspension springs, or from worn drum bearings. With a leak, the technician follows the water back to where it starts (door boot, fill hoses, detergent dispenser, pump or tub seal) and fixes that part instead of patching around it. We work on top-load, front-load, compact and stacked washers, including washer-dryer combos.

Electric dryers

Damp clothes after a full cycle start with an airflow and heat check. A blown thermal fuse often means the vent was blocked, so we look at both before replacing it. A dryer that won’t start usually has a failed door switch or start switch, a blown thermal fuse or a control board fault, and squeaking or thumping is usually the drum rollers, belt or idler pulley. Those wear parts are straightforward to replace and can add years to a full-size or stacked dryer.

Dishwashers

A puddle on the floor, a gritty film or dirty dishes almost always has a specific cause. The technician checks the filter and sump, the drain pump and hose, the spray arms, the inlet valve, the heating element and the door seal, and tests the control board and latch if the unit won’t start. The usual fixes are a new drain or circulation pump, inlet valve, door gasket, latch, heating element or float switch, or simply clearing a blocked drain path. If yours flashes a code or beeps in a pattern, mention it when you book.

Microwaves and range hoods

Over-the-range microwaves do double duty, so when one fails you lose both the microwave and the hood fan. On built-in and over-the-range models we replace failed magnetrons, high-voltage diodes and capacitors, door switches, turntable motors, exhaust fans and control boards; on range hoods, the fans, lights and switches. For a countertop microwave, we’ll tell you honestly whether a repair is worth it.

We can quote installing a replacement electric appliance on existing connections: a washer, electric dryer, dishwasher, electric range, over-the-range microwave or a fridge water line. Gas hook-ups, new circuits, new vent openings and cabinet changes are not included. Tell us what you are replacing and we confirm what the job involves, and its price, before the visit. More detail is on our York Region appliance installation page.